![]() So much time spent building and flashing. Yes, a handful of parameters are stored in EEPROM and can be modified post-compile, but the vast majority of settings and feature enablements are all hardcoded #defines. But the hardcoded parameter architecture made it so difficult to love. Marlin holds a special place in my heart for introducing me to the world of 3d printing. Slightly orthogonal to the post but I have to share my piece. There was never enough demand, but plugging the UPS into USB could even do smart things based power status, finish layer, turn off/low heaters, retract or what have you, and wait for power return. If brownouts are the issue? A smaller UPS already help a ton. When a print is well on it’s way, the bed temp can be lowered and it should be able to print quite a bit. A UPS! If you print enough and don’t want to risk failure? Get a 300$ or something UPS. The, without a doubt, best solution? Always the same, which works on Ultimaker with SD cards too. What I the print warped and moved? SSO many things that can fail. E.g.after power failure, the gcode only helps with so much, the bed probably needs to be recalibrated etc. The simple answer always came back to, why do you need this? To avoid a ruined 10 hour print or some such. ![]() Obviously you want were as little as possible to avoid disk wear. Especially that last part, flush buffers to storage, was the most important thing, as we did not use SD cards, so we would have to store progress data in Linux anyway. The problem was ‘how to detect power failure’ and ‘what can we do with N ms. Mostly to save/avoid emmc flash/disk corruption Linux issues at the time. Posted in 3d Printer hacks Tagged 3d printing Post navigationĭisclaimer, I used to work for Ultimaker.ĭuring development of the Ultimaker 3, we often looked at this. If you want to know more about making time lapses of your 3D prints, we’ve covered that, too. If you want to know more about arc welding (the 3D printer kind, not the spark-and-metal kind), we’ve talked about it before. We also were impressed with ’s time-lapse videos which are quite cinematic and use a motion-control camera. Even if you don’t want to install it, the discussion of why curved lines sometimes cause blobs even over USB is well-explained in the README file, not to mention the associated blog post. There is an Octoprint plugin called Buffer Buddy, by the way, that can give you some insight into your printing issues, although it can also hang your printer, especially - we’ve found - if you have Meatpack enabled to compress gcode over serial, too. The problem is that using the power loss feature is also tying up the SD card, so the more you can read ahead, the more time it has to write to the card for power loss. If you can rebuild Marlin, this is not very hard to do. This can significantly reduce the amount of gcode involved in these arcs.Īnother possibility is to increase the buffers in your firmware. What’s more, you can ensure you have support for arcs in your firmware and instruct your slicer to emit arcs or use a plugin for Octoprint called arc welder. You can control this in several ways, including at design time and by setting the resolution of the slicing. The first problem is that smooth, round objects like this tend to generate a lot of gcode. If your SD card is slow or you are trying to print from the same SD card, you can trigger this problem. To do this, the printer periodically writes some state information to the SD card. If you have never used a printer with power loss recovery, the intent is to make it so that you can pick up a print job where it left off if the power dies. While there’s a lot going on in the video, you can break it down to a few items, all of which you can fix in one way or another including the simple fix: turn off power loss recovery. So what was causing the blobs? You can find the answer in the video below.Īs you might guess from the title, however, the issue was the power loss recovery feature built into the printer. He also showed a perfectly-printed version of the same part and claimed it was from the same printer with the same material and even slicer settings. If you’ve been 3D printing for any length of time, you know that pauses in printing can cause blobs like this. A round part he was printing had a distinct pattern of blobs.
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